Fashion and Gender

Paul Poiret
* 1879-1944
* French fashion designer
* best known for freeing women from corsets
* invented restricting hobble skirts
* favoured straight lines in dress making
* established own house in 1903
* Made name with Kimono coat
* flamboyant window displays
* big parties
* tried to bring in pants for women
* 1911 own perfume company named after daughter Rosine
* Opened fashion school named after youngest daughter Martine
* left to serve in WWI
* 1919 house near bankruptcy
* 1929 house closed.






Images left to right.
1. Dress by Poiret
Source: http://www.victoriana.com/GazetteduBonTon/designerdresses.html
2. Hobble skirt
Source: http://vintage.blox.ua/2009/03/Uzkaya-yubka-Hobble-Skirt.html
3. Dresses by Poiret
Source:http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/artworld/2007/05/21/070521craw
_artworld_thurman
4. Fashion Illustration by Poiret
Source : http://modamilanesa.wordpress.com/2008/02/
5. Poiret design for women's pants
Source: http://www.theatlantic.com/doc/200709/paul-poiret

Cubism

* Early 20th century art movement
* Mainly in sculptures and paintings
* Started by Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque





Images left to right.
1. Pablo Picasso, Les Demoiselles d'Avignon. Paris, 1907. Oil on canvas
Source: http://dbeveridge.web.wesleyan.edu/wescourses/2001f/chem160/01/Photo_Gallery_Humanities/picasso/pages/Les_Demoiselles_d
2.Georges Braque, Guitar & Clarinet, 1918, Oil on canvas,
Source: http://www.superstock.com/stock-photos-images/1330-1265
3. Pablo Picasso, The Three Musicians
Source: http://www.uoregon.edu/~jvansise/picasso/jvansisepicasso.htm
4. Georges Braque, Le Viaduc à L’Estaque (The Viaduct at L'Estaque), 1908
Source: http://www.centrepompidou.fr/education/ressources/ENS-cubisme_en/cubisme_en.html

Coco Chanel
* born Gabrielle Bonheur 'coco' Chanel
* 1883-1971
* very influential fashion designer
* simplistic menswear inspired women's suit
* loved black, created little black dress
* wore black casually
* always simplified things
* Used jersey a lot stopped the stigma of it being a 'poor fabric'
* Very influential in the 'flapper look'
* Introduced fragrance no. 5 in 1921
* Shut business in WW2, believed it was no time for fashion
* had affair with Nazi spy
* returned to France 1954
* due to her affair with the Nazi spy her designs did not do very well in France but were extremely popular in America.




Images left to right
1. Chanel suit
Source:http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/ho_C.I.54.16.1a,b.htm
2. Chanel suit
Source:http://sewingoesdiva.wordpress.com/2008/01/03/designer-spotlight/
3. Coco Chanel herself
Source:http://frillr.com/?q=node/5996
4. Chanel in her LBD
Source:http://vintagevienna.blogspot.com/2008/03/lbd.html

Madeleine Vionnet
* 1876 - 1975
* French fashion designer
* known as 'Queen of the bias cut' (introduced and popularised bias cut to the world)
* born to a poor family
* sent to a nunnery at young age, but her family allowed her to leave after a hunger strike. After which she pursued her fashion career,
* Used a lot of draping and gathering
* best known for popularising Grecian style dress.
* did not like fashion or the idea of fashion. she rebelled against the idea of fashion and created her own idea of beauty instead of following trends.




Images Left to Right
1. Dancer Irene Castle poses in a Vionnet dress
Source:http://artdecoblog.blogspot.com/2008/04/irene-castle-1922.html
2. Vionnet gown
Source:http://laurawheeler.perso.infonie.fr/vionnet.html
3. Vionnet evening gowns
Source:http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/psop/ho_C.I.46.4.24ab,25ab.htm


Elsa Schiaparelli

* 1890-1973
* Italian fashion designer
* dominated fashion world between WW1 and WW2
* highly influenced by surrealism and collaborated numerously with Salvador Dali
* began to make own clothes at young age
* Opened the house of schiaparelli that closed in 1954
* collaborated with artist Jean Cocteau to make jacket and Salvador Dali to make Lobster dress and Tear dress
* Best known for Shoe hat

Images left to right
1. Shoe hat by Elsa Schiaparelli
Source:http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/gallery/2009/feb/10/fashion?picture=343060604
2.Tear dress by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali
Source:http://arttattler.com/designsurrealthings.html
3. Lobster dress by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali
Source:http://www.jennyhaniver.com/2009_03_01_archive.html

Surrealism
* Art movement in early 1920's
* takes images from the unconscious

Images left to right

1.Salvador Dalí White Aphrodisiac Telephone, 1936, Plastic, painted plaster and mixed media.
Source: http://arttattler.com/designsurrealthings.html
2.René Magritte La reproduction interdite, 1937.
Source: http://arttattler.com/designsurrealthings.html

3. Meret Oppenheim, Table with Bird's Legs, 1939.
Source: http://arttattler.com/designsurrealthings.html