Fashion and Escapism

1930's - 1940's Hollywood impact
* More women wore make-up
* fashion was more glamorous
* new influential style icons.
* globalisation - everybody looked up to Hollywood

Images left to right
1. Old photo of Hollywood sign
Source:http://www.gamecyte.com/the-replay-value-of-history
2. Bette Davis, influential Hollywood icon
Style: http://www.zimbio.com/1940s+Hair/notes/1/Best+1940s+Hair+Pictures
3. Audrey Hepburn, influential Hollywood icon
Source: http://students.ou.edu/V/Traci.M.Vickers-1/


1980's designer heros
* Economy boom
* YUPPIEs
* Women - power suits, dressed for success, big hair, shoulder pads.
* Doc Martins
* Trainers
* Pumps
* fish net hosiery
* Colour Coordination
* Fashion to make a statement

1. women in 'power suits'
Source:http://www.customizedgirl.com/blog/?p=26
2. Madonna, influential style icon
Source: http://www.eightiesonline.com/80s-music/madonna-top-1980s-fashion-icon
3. Men's fashion
Source: http://my.opera.com/TogaOga/blog/styles-of-the-past

The Ballet Russes
* (French for the Russian ballet)
* A ballet company
* 1909 to 1929
* preformed in numerous countries but never in Russia
* Amazing extravagant costumes
* designer Leon Baskt did not make literal costumes.
* Very influential on Europeans

Images Left to right
1.http://www.hatii.arts.gla.ac.uk/MultimediaStudentProjects/00-01/9705226m/mmcourse/project/gonch.project/ballets_russes.htm
2.http://thetextileblog.blogspot.com/2008/04/ballets-russes.html
3.http://www.hatii.arts.gla.ac.uk/MultimediaStudentProjects/00-01/9705226m/mmcourse/project/gonch.project/ballets_russes.htm

Fashion and Gender

Paul Poiret
* 1879-1944
* French fashion designer
* best known for freeing women from corsets
* invented restricting hobble skirts
* favoured straight lines in dress making
* established own house in 1903
* Made name with Kimono coat
* flamboyant window displays
* big parties
* tried to bring in pants for women
* 1911 own perfume company named after daughter Rosine
* Opened fashion school named after youngest daughter Martine
* left to serve in WWI
* 1919 house near bankruptcy
* 1929 house closed.






Images left to right.
1. Dress by Poiret
Source: http://www.victoriana.com/GazetteduBonTon/designerdresses.html
2. Hobble skirt
Source: http://vintage.blox.ua/2009/03/Uzkaya-yubka-Hobble-Skirt.html
3. Dresses by Poiret
Source:http://www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/artworld/2007/05/21/070521craw
_artworld_thurman
4. Fashion Illustration by Poiret
Source : http://modamilanesa.wordpress.com/2008/02/
5. Poiret design for women's pants
Source: http://www.theatlantic.com/doc/200709/paul-poiret

Cubism

* Early 20th century art movement
* Mainly in sculptures and paintings
* Started by Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque





Images left to right.
1. Pablo Picasso, Les Demoiselles d'Avignon. Paris, 1907. Oil on canvas
Source: http://dbeveridge.web.wesleyan.edu/wescourses/2001f/chem160/01/Photo_Gallery_Humanities/picasso/pages/Les_Demoiselles_d
2.Georges Braque, Guitar & Clarinet, 1918, Oil on canvas,
Source: http://www.superstock.com/stock-photos-images/1330-1265
3. Pablo Picasso, The Three Musicians
Source: http://www.uoregon.edu/~jvansise/picasso/jvansisepicasso.htm
4. Georges Braque, Le Viaduc à L’Estaque (The Viaduct at L'Estaque), 1908
Source: http://www.centrepompidou.fr/education/ressources/ENS-cubisme_en/cubisme_en.html

Coco Chanel
* born Gabrielle Bonheur 'coco' Chanel
* 1883-1971
* very influential fashion designer
* simplistic menswear inspired women's suit
* loved black, created little black dress
* wore black casually
* always simplified things
* Used jersey a lot stopped the stigma of it being a 'poor fabric'
* Very influential in the 'flapper look'
* Introduced fragrance no. 5 in 1921
* Shut business in WW2, believed it was no time for fashion
* had affair with Nazi spy
* returned to France 1954
* due to her affair with the Nazi spy her designs did not do very well in France but were extremely popular in America.




Images left to right
1. Chanel suit
Source:http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/ho_C.I.54.16.1a,b.htm
2. Chanel suit
Source:http://sewingoesdiva.wordpress.com/2008/01/03/designer-spotlight/
3. Coco Chanel herself
Source:http://frillr.com/?q=node/5996
4. Chanel in her LBD
Source:http://vintagevienna.blogspot.com/2008/03/lbd.html

Madeleine Vionnet
* 1876 - 1975
* French fashion designer
* known as 'Queen of the bias cut' (introduced and popularised bias cut to the world)
* born to a poor family
* sent to a nunnery at young age, but her family allowed her to leave after a hunger strike. After which she pursued her fashion career,
* Used a lot of draping and gathering
* best known for popularising Grecian style dress.
* did not like fashion or the idea of fashion. she rebelled against the idea of fashion and created her own idea of beauty instead of following trends.




Images Left to Right
1. Dancer Irene Castle poses in a Vionnet dress
Source:http://artdecoblog.blogspot.com/2008/04/irene-castle-1922.html
2. Vionnet gown
Source:http://laurawheeler.perso.infonie.fr/vionnet.html
3. Vionnet evening gowns
Source:http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/psop/ho_C.I.46.4.24ab,25ab.htm


Elsa Schiaparelli

* 1890-1973
* Italian fashion designer
* dominated fashion world between WW1 and WW2
* highly influenced by surrealism and collaborated numerously with Salvador Dali
* began to make own clothes at young age
* Opened the house of schiaparelli that closed in 1954
* collaborated with artist Jean Cocteau to make jacket and Salvador Dali to make Lobster dress and Tear dress
* Best known for Shoe hat

Images left to right
1. Shoe hat by Elsa Schiaparelli
Source:http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/gallery/2009/feb/10/fashion?picture=343060604
2.Tear dress by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali
Source:http://arttattler.com/designsurrealthings.html
3. Lobster dress by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali
Source:http://www.jennyhaniver.com/2009_03_01_archive.html

Surrealism
* Art movement in early 1920's
* takes images from the unconscious

Images left to right

1.Salvador Dalí White Aphrodisiac Telephone, 1936, Plastic, painted plaster and mixed media.
Source: http://arttattler.com/designsurrealthings.html
2.René Magritte La reproduction interdite, 1937.
Source: http://arttattler.com/designsurrealthings.html

3. Meret Oppenheim, Table with Bird's Legs, 1939.
Source: http://arttattler.com/designsurrealthings.html

The rise of beauty and decoration

Charles Frederick Worth
* 1825 - 1895
* Fashion designer
* Father of Couture
* Born in England before moving to France
* Well connected with royal European women
* Invented the bussel
* Changed fashion to be less impersonal and impractical full hoop to S shape silhouette
* Extravagant highly decorated dresses.





Images left to right
1. dress by Charles Frederick worth. Example of S silhouette
Source: http://www.forbes.com/2001/08/22/0822connguide.html
2. Charles Frederick Worth Himself
Source : http://kennethtangnes.wordpress.com/2008/11/18/jeg-liker-motehistorie-haute-couturecharles-frederick-worth/
3. Dress by Charles Frederick Worth for Elisabeth of Austria
Source :http://whatifwhatifdoesitmatter.blogspot.com/2008/07/victorian-fashion.html


Art Nouveau
* 1890-1905
* International movement.
* Very Decorative
* Reaction to academics
* Characterised by organic and floral designs
* Bridge between historicism and modernism
* Romantic style
* Art movement
* Very apparent style in advertising
* Orientalism became popular
* Art focuses on women

Images left to right
1. Art nuveau poster
Source: http://www.artcardsxl.com/Art%20Nouveau%20Gallery.htm
2. Absinthe poster
Source: http://www.oxygenee.com/absinthe/posters1.html
3. Art Nouveau Poster
Source: http://www.artcardsxl.com/Art%20Nouveau%20Gallery.htm
4. Absinthe Poster
Source : http://www.oxygenee.com/absinthe/posters1.html

Art Deco
* In the same period as WW1
* Prohibition - ironically made it popular to drink
* Had a large influence on many design areas. Including, architecture, furniture,
interior,graphical, art and fashion.
* Functional and modern approach to design.
* Art styles : Cubism, surrealism, dadism and futurism. These art styles were in rebellion
to 'art' challenging what was classified as art
* Suffragette movement was extremely strong, women were rapidly gaining more rights
* Women were allowed, to drive cars, be in Parliament, work, smoke in public
*Androgynous styles for women became popular - straight tubular silhouette, bobbed hair.
* Cosmetics became popular
* hemlines rose
* Massive reductions in amounts of material used (as result of WW1)
* Geometric designs very popular.

Images Left to right
1. Pablo Picasso, The weeping women, 1937
Cubist image
Source : http://www.inminds.co.uk/weeping-woman-picasso-1937.html
2. Marcel Duchamp, L.H.O.O.Q., 1919, Pencil on a reproduction.
Dadaist painting
Source : http://www.artlex.com/ArtLex/An.html
3. Image of women's fashion.
Source: http://artdecoblog.blogspot.com/2007/01/femme-chic-1924.html
4. Gerardo Dottori,Crucifixion, 1928
Futurist art
Source : http://www.amblondra.esteri.it/Ambasciata_Londra/Archivio_News/futurismo.htm
5. McDonalds Building in Clifton Hill, Melbourne, Australia.
Example or Art deco architecture.
Source : http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=112844

Arts and Craft.
Arts and craft became very popular in the art deco period. This was a reaction to the industrial revaluation. Many rebelled against machines and mass productions and it became common for people to create there own art and craft.

Words to research
* Suffragette: a member of the movement campaigning
for women's voting rights.
* Androgyny: The mix of feminine and masculine characteristics

The National portrait gallary

1. Title: Gloves off
   Artist: Ralph Heimans
   Portrait subject: Tome Uren
   Date: 1996Type of portrait: Painting
   Medium: Oil on Canvas
   Image source: http://www.portrait.gov.au/site/collection_info.php?searchtype=basic&searchstring=gloves%20off&irn=155
   
   
   The portrait ‘Gloves off’ by Ralph Heimans communicates a large impression of Tom Uren’s character. The main factor that communicates Uren’s unique personality is the composition.
   
   The stance that Uren is captured in is intriguing and reveals many elements of his individuality. The way his arms are outstretched creates a large sense of movement, this communicates that Uren is always moving and looking to the future. The expressive stance gives signifies a man that is; free-spirited, committed, passionate and to the point. The background of the portrait reflects on Uren’s political career.
   The background is of the silhouette of a cityscape and a windswept sky. The cityscape may mean he works towards progress and change. The windswept sky enforces the free-spirited aspect of Uren’s personality, also appearing as a spotlight.
   
   This spotlight describes Uren as a strong, dominating character with loads of confidence.
   The contrasting objects depict separate sides to Uren’s personality. On the left there is a piece of paper of a lectern, symbolising; intelligence, democracy and power. In contrast to the right the boxing gloves symbolis Uren as; a fighter, courageous and forceful.
   The technique also reflects on Uren’s character. The realist style refers to Uren’s sense of reality and being a traditionalist. Heimans (the artist) used tone to highlight the most important elements of the portrait. By doing this he is also saying that Uren is focused. Inside the portrait there is nothing particularly Australian. However after reading the plaque I found that Uren was fought in World War two and was detained by the Japanese as a prisoner of war. Before moving on to be a politician for the labor party campaigning mainly for the environment, urban planning and veteran rights. I think as someone who was so involved in Australia’s history and issues the portrait does appeal to me as being particularly Australian.
   
   
   
   
2. Title: Missy Higgins
   Artist: Julian Kingma
   Portrait subject : Missy Higgins
   Date: 2004
   Type of portrait: Photograph
   Medium: Type C print.
   Image Source: http://www.portrait.gov.au/site/collection_info.php?searchtype=basic&searchstring=missy%20higgins&irn=1139
   
   
   This portrait of Missy Higgins by Julian Kingman, communicates a large amount about Higgin’s personality. This communication is again depicted mainly by the composition. Many of the messages contrast against each other showing many sides to Higgins.
   
   The Higgins is portrayed, sitting on a piano, slightly hunched over facing the viewer. way Higgins is hunched over and leaning on her writs says that she is reserved, slightly self-conscience and young.
   The clothing worn is modest and feminine; describing a character that is; traditional, classic, well grounded and wholesome. However the large collar covering Higgins neck also reveals her to be guarded.
   The bare feet symbolize a Higgins as being: free-spirited, humble and wild while reinforcing her youth and innocence.
   The manner in which her foot in placed on the piano pressing on the keys, communicate musical confidence and connection. Also how the shadow is cast upon Higgins’ back blending her and the piano tonally, reinforces her musical connection.
   
   Higgins is positioned on top of the piano. Sitting above the piano so comfortably conveys that Higgins has mastered the piano. The lighter tones focus on Higgins, and while she looks slightly reserved articulates that she is familiar with the spotlight and a comfortable performer.
   
   The technique used in the photograph enhances the composition. The black and white photograph symbolizes a sense of simplicity, being traditional and contrast.
   
   In this photograph there is nothing traditionally or partially Australian. Although Missy Higgins is a fantastic and honorable Australian musician I would not consider her music or career particularly Australian either.
   

© Faye Pinner

National archives of Australia

1. 
   Title : Larrakia, petition to the Queen
   Date : 1972
   Record creator : Office of Aboriginal Affairs
   Reference : A2354, 1973/86
   Image source : http://vrroom.naa.gov.au/print_display.aspx?ObjectType=SingleRecordPrint&irecordid=989
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   The reason I choose this document was because it was the only evidence of the stolen generation on display. I think this is a very important aspect of Australian culture, because what happened is unique to Australian history, Australia as a nation is still dealing with the effects, and because Aboriginal background is the original Australian culture.
   
   
2. 
   Title : Australia – The land of Opportunity
   Date : 1928
   Record Creator : Department of Dominions Office, United Kingdom
   Reference : A434, 1949/3/21685
   Image Source : http://vrroom.naa.gov.au/main_display.aspx?ObjectType=ResearchRecordDisplay&iRecordId=850
   
   

   Although British settlement is not unique to Australia I found this poster to be extremely relevant to our culture. This is because it’s about people moving to Australia for new opportunities, something the majority of Australians can relate to.
   
   
   © Faye Pinner